filament labs one: testing our new printer software with a part we need [updates]
So today we're going to go ahead and test out our printer's software by printing a piece that connects the auger to the new motor we got. And we're going to try to slice it using NO tuned settings or anything just one of the default profiles we created yesterday, and we're going to try to not use the Z-Zero function which would allow us to confirm if our new z-offset automatic calibration has worked. But first we need to design this part.
We're going to make the coupler itself like 26mm tall as that's twice the length of the shaft that we're sliding the system on to. We're likely going to add an extra 2mm of clearance on each side.
And due to tolerances, the properties of PLA shrinking and etc, we scaled up the whole design by about 1% which should be fun to see if this prints to the right size. And we're actually going to send it straight to the Filament Labs Slicer straight from Fusion 360. We sent it straight by selecting custom application --> Filament Labs.
We're going with PLA 0.16 Structural which pops the infill up to 100%. And the only thing we changed from defaults was not generating supports. So now we're going to hit slice and stick it into the printer and see what happens!
If I had to guess, this has something to do with changing the name of the program from Cura to Filament Labs slicer or something. WE need to give this program access to file vault and etc.
Okay but selecting the drive and saving to it directly from file explorer worked... hmmm I don't know what happened there but we can figure that out at a later point. This will be fine when we build Cura from scratch the right way. Let's put this in the printer and see if it does the Z-Zeroing we expect it to.
This print is also a really really good test piece because we increased the system by about 1.01 scale which means this will tell us what the level of dimensional accuracy on these prints are especially for a semi-tight fit for parts. So let's see after it's done.
But does it Z-offset on its ownnnnn????
Now the problem isn't it setting the z offset correctly or incorrectly, I don't think there's enough of a wait in-between it sending commands so it actually sets the offset higher than it means to?
G28 ;Home G1 X165 Y165 F2800 ;Move to Z-Zero position G92 Z0 ;Zero the Z G1 Z-1.92 F50 ;Generate the Offset G4 P3000 G92 Z0 ;Zero the Z G4 P3000
What happens if we add 3s of wait in between everything? The thing is this should work because when I just did the Z-offset calibration I hit up on the 1mm twice so that +2mm then -0.1mm then +0.02mm which should bring us to 1.92 which is exactly what is programmed into the gcode. So these waits are to make sure we capture the right offset and don't move too quickly to the next place. I think that might be what's happening here. Let's see. So let's close up the printer case and wait to see what happens next.
What we're looking for is a 6s pause after the thing goes down while it is zeroing and capturing. And then it should go on its merry way printing things. 6s is generous but I think let's over-set it now rather than under-set. Waiting to see if this works because the 1.92mm offset did work when we did it manually. Again, our limit switch can't be that terrible on this printer. So bigger problem at the moment is it didn't even wait. So I think the command is actually: https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?12,364235,364235 like G4,,, P2000 or something, we were just saying "P3000". So let's fix that!
Now let's see if it at least waits for the 6s. And then we can eyeball if it's really at the right height. Otherwise we know it's the actual offset and not waiting for it to reach the offset or something.
Okay so that didn't work which means it's the actual offset and we should make it lower like to -1.95 or -1.97. Let's try the -1.95 first and then see what happens. Okay that didn't work either 1.97? We're going to try that offset and see what happens because I think the lowest we should have to go is like 2mm and then we start hitting the build plate. IT's also possible that setting from here is more precise than setting from the UI which, honestly, I'd believe maybe (probably not but I trust CURA more than TRONXY).
Okay so this is looking bettteerrrrrrr let's see if we can get it even better I think we'll drop it to -2mm. OR something. Okay yes this -1.97 is working. We're going to leave this for now because it actually looks really really good, and we'll get back to it inn another print to see if 1.97 is still useable after the turn the printer back off and on again - then we might drop to -1.98 maybe we counted wrong or something.
So the print looks really really nice, unfortunately the door fell off the printer so we're going to need to re-think how we attach the door to the printer with just the two glue pieces. I'm thinking the VHB tape and super-glue wasn't enough but this is a tomorrow problem. We have to clean up the glass tonight. :/